Czech food requires a reprogramming of the culinary mindset: Fat is flavor, grease is good and cholesterol is your friend. If this sounds liberating, then roll up your sleeves and pull up a chair.
Bohemian dining reflects the gustable influences of neighboring countries on this crossroads of Europe. Germanic imports include roast goose, sauerkraut and dumplings. Czech cuisine has also adapted schnitzels (breaded and fried chicken or pork patties) from Vienna, goulash from Hungary and other Slav basics -- sour cream, vinegar, sour vegetables, pickles -- from the East. And while Czech food is many things, it is not spicy, herb-laden -- or light.
Meats and starches dominate the national dinner table. The most popular typical Czech dish is Veprova s knedlikem a se zelim -- roast pork served with sauerkraut and dumplings. This hearty tabletop trinity will have fans of plain home cooking pleased from the first mouthful down to the last carraway seed.
Svickova na smetane (sliced beef sirloin, braised in the oven and served in a cream sauce with a garnish of cranberries and a dollop of whipped cream) is another haute classic from the traditional Czech kitchen.
Some notches lower on the cuisine scale, gulas (goulash) holds a firm place in the quick-but-filling-lunch-or-dinner category. Good goulash cries out for -- and is almost always accompanied by -- a side dish of spongy, fluffy Czech dumplings, which are distinguished by being served in slices, much like bread. Often garnished with onion slices, they nicely balance the gulas blend of rich gravy and beef, as well as being an aid in mopping up the rich sauces.
Hearty food requires hearty drink, and Czech beer is touted as the world's best. Two of the most famous labels are Pilsner Urquell, a light and hoppy brew, and Budwieser Budvar, considered a national treasure -- one taste and you'll know why. But visitors need not be too fussy about which brand they drink, since there are so many good ones to choose from: Radegast, Velkopopovicky kozel, Staropramen and Gambrinus, to name a few more. In general, tmave pivo (dark beer) is usually sweet while svetle pivo (a light, golden-color beer) is aromatic and bitter.
Among wines, Moravian varieties are the best. Frankovka (a bitter red) and Rulandske (a dry white) are widely available. In Bohemia, the only noteworthy wine comes form the Melnik vineyards.
Among grab-and-go foods, bramborak (a garlic-seasoned fried potato pancake) is a quick, if greasy, local favorite. Ditto for smazeny syr (fried cheese). The parek v rohliku (hotdog encased in a roll) is sold from kiosk windows around the city and is a reliable bridge between an early lunch and late dinner.
Regular hors d'oeuvres include Prague ham (normally served with a splotch of horseradish) herring and sardines. What one doesn't find are colorful medleys of fresh vegetables. With the exception of tomatoes, cabbage, bell peppers and cucumbers, canned vegetables are more likely to be the norm.
Mushrooms, of course, are the exception to everything. They flourish in local forests and are hunted by the population with a passion normally reserved for the soccer stadium.
Although landlocked, the Czech Republic does not lock out seafood lovers. For those feeling claustrophobic among the plentiful pork, beef and chicken offerings, there are escape routes leading to lakes, streams and ponds. Pond-bred trout and carp from south Bohemia are popular and available in any Czech restaurant worth its sul.
Vegetarian dining is practically nonexistant, but there enough Czech sidedishes -- fried cheese, potato pancakes, various vegetable soups -- for those who wish to avoid meat.
Desserts are a dumpling deja vu -- except that these end-of-the-meal treats are sweet, filled with plums or other fruit. Other dessert staples are apple strudel, palacinky (rolled crepes filled with jam, fruit or laced with chocolate sauce) and kolacky -- pastries topped with almonds, poppy seed jam, or a sweet curd cheese.
Cafes
Cafe Imperial Elegant, ballroom-like atmosphere set to black-tie jazz theme. Breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks are also served. Na Porici 15, Prague 1. Open daily 7:00 - 23:00.
Cafe Konvikt Bright, airy space with plenty of room for lone readers and gossiping groups on the lower level. Bartolomejska 11, Prague 1-Old Town. Open daily 10:00 - 24:00
Cafe Louvre A spacious, cheerful cafe where Franz Kafka, Max Brod and their circle used to talk philosophy. Complete menu. Narodni 20, Prague 1. Open Mon.- Fri. 8:00- 23:30, Sat.- Sun. 09:00 - 23:00
Cafe Savoy With a high, ornamental ceiling, unusual chandeliers and a tinkling fountain, the Savoy offers atmosphere and plenty of space for absorbing it. Full dinner menu as well. Vitezna 5, Prague 5. . Open Mon.- Fri. 08:00 - 22:30 Sat.- Sun. 09:00 - 22:30
Coffee Express Ideal for coffee to go. Espresso, cappuccino, macchiatto and iced coffees -- all of which can be made decaffeinated. Dlouha 39, Prague 1. Open Mon.-Fri. 8 a.m.-8 p.m., Sat. and Sun. 10 a.m.-8 p.m.
Ebel Coffee House A miracle: coffee of the highest quality in the heart of Old Town. Pure arabicas and custom coffee blends created just for Praguers. Tyn 2, Prague 1-Old Town. Open daily 9 a.m.-10 p.m.
French Institute Cafe Frequented by Praguers and French people alike, including many students, for cheap coffee and croissants, French papers and magazines. Stepanska 35, Prague 1. Open Mon.-Fri. 9 a.m.-6 p.m.
Grand Hotel Evropa Faded glory, to be sure, but still crammed to the balcony rails with turn-of-the-century Art Nouveau excesses. The most stylish old nook on Wenceslas Square. Vaclavske nam. 25, Prague 1. Open daily 9:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Cover may be charged for live music.
Hotel Pariz--Cafe de Paris The ritzy downtown cafe address with occasional jazz combos, highballs and a colorful history, thanks to Bohumil H rabal's I Served the King of England. U Obecniho domu 1, Prague 1. Open daily 10 a.m.-midnight
Jazz Cafe c. 14 A classic. Try this the next time you need a quiet night among friends. Opatovicka 14, Prague 1 (near Narodni trida metro station). Open Mon.-Fri. 10 a.m.-11 p.m., Sat. and Sun. noon-11 p.m.
Kavarna Merkur A hip new hangout in Old Town. Inexpensive drinks and food. Live music in the evening. Dlouha 39, Prague 1. Open daily 11 a.m.-midnight
Kavarna Slavia The views across the river unbeatable at Prague's most celebrated literary and theatrical cafe. Narodni trida at Smetanovo nabrezi, across from the National Theater, Prague 1. . Open Mon.-Fri. 8 a.m.-midnight, Sat. and Sun. 9 a.m.-midnight
Kenvelo Cafe Hardcore coffee culture, thy name is Kenvelo: a sleek and tony espresso bar for the cellular phone crowd. Full menu. Vaclavske nam. 1 (in the Koruna Palace arcade). Open daily 8 a.m.-11 p.m.
Literarni kavarna G plus G As expected from a coffee house run by a publisher, local literary journals, hard-to-find magazines and small-press books are easy to find here. Readings and live music regularly. Cerchovska 4, Prague 2. . Open daily 10 a.m.-10 p.m.
Meduza Comfy old chairs in which to while away the hours, unusual prints on the walls, and a full range of coffees and teas, light meals and snacks attract trendy clientele. Belgicka 17, Prague 2. Open Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-1 a.m., Sat. and Sun. noon-1 a.m.
U mravence An unexpectedly hip cafe with gallery space and good wine where you would least expect it -- on Old Town Square. Live music, snacks and excellent coffee. U Radnice 20, Prague 1. Open daily 11 a.m.-midnight
Le Patio Cafe A sumptuous setting and an abundance of coffees, small plates and very serious sweets. Narodni 22, Prague 1. . Open Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m.-7 p.m., Sun. 11 a.m.-7 p.m.
U sv. Vojtecha Neighborhood gathering place, light, airy and comfortable, with newspapers-on-a-stick and pleasant service. Vojtesska 14, Prague 1 (behind the National Theater). Open Mon.-Fri. 8 a.m.-10 p.m., Sat. 10 a.m.-10 p.m., Sun. 10 a.m.-8 p.m.
U Zeleneho caje The "Green Tea" proffers teas and light meals on busy Nerudova street just below the castle. Nerudova 19, Prague 1. Open daily 11 a.m.-10 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa
Restaurants
Expensive
Alcron The best fish and seafood dining in Prague . Romantic restaurant with Art Deco details. Recommended: St. Jacob’s mussels with mushrooms and Lardo di Colonnata (Italian bacon). Slowly roast pork belly with red shrimps and apply purée. Štěpánská 40, Prague 1 - New Town. Tel. 222820308. Open for dinner 5:30 p.m. - 10:30 p.m.(except weekend) AmEx, Euro/MC, JCB, Visa. Around 1,800 Kc.
Barock Bar & Cafe. Beautiful food for beautiful people: Thai and Japanese cuisine with a sprinkling of specialty Korean and Chinese dishes. Parizska 24, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 232 9221Open Mon.-Wed. 8:30 a.m.-1 a.m., Thurs.-Fri. 8:30 a.m.-2 a.m., Sat. and Sun. 10 a.m.-2 a.m. AmEx, DC, Euro/MC, Visa. 900-1,200 Kc.
Bazaar Mediterranee Very chic. Labyrinthine interiors and marvellous views of Mala Strana from the terrace. Recommended: gazpacho, Moroccan meatballs in vegetable ragout, coq au vin with tagliatelli, couscous a la Marrakesh. Nerudova 40, Prague 1-Mala Strana. Tel. 9005 4510. Open daily 11 a.m.-midnight. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 500-1,200 Kc.
Bellevue A gorgeous castle view complements the world-class, nouvelle-style cuisine, served up in an atmosphere of formal elegance. Smetanovo nabr. 18, Prague 1. Tel. 2222 0435. Open Mon.- Sat. noon-3 p.m. and 5:30-11 p.m., Sun. 11 a.m.-3 p.m. for brunch and 7-11 p.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 1,200 Kc and up
Casablanca Moroccan and kosher. Rick's Cafe Americain it ain't, but Casablanca offers opulent surroundings, sincere service and creative cookery. Na Prikope 10, Prague 1. Tel. 2421 0519. Open daily 11:30 a.m.-midnight. AmEx, Diners Club, Euro/MC, Visa. 400-700 Kc
Chez Moi Good French food at modest prices. Largely undiscovered. Recommended: beef filet with rouquefort, lamb cutlets "Chasseur." Tomasska 12, Prague 1-Mala Strana. Tel 5753 2344. Open daily noon-midnight. Major credit cards. 500-700 Kc.
Kampa Park Superb Scandinavian seafood and seasonal specialties are among the top choices at this posh riverside restaurant. Weekday lunches offer great value and are especially popular. Na Kampe 8b, Prague 1-Kampa island. Tel. 5753 2685 or 5753 2686 Open daily 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. (bar open 11:30 a.m.-1 a.m.). AmEx, Diners Club, Euro/MC, Visa. 500-1,000 Kc.
Don Giovanni Top-of-the-line Italian. Classy food, service, atmosphere, castle view. Fresh fish. Rivals beware. Karoliny Svetle 34, Prague 1-Old Town. (Near Charles Bridge.) Tel. 2222 2060 or 2222 2062. Open daily, noon-midnight. AmEx, DC, Euro/MC, Visa. 600-800 Kc.
King Solomon Kosher. In the heart of the old Jewish quarter. Eat something! Recommended: gefilte fish, chicken soup, blue carp with prunes and potatoes. Siroka 8, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2481 8752. Open Sun.-Thurs. 11 a.m.-11 p.m., Fri. 11 a.m.-90 minutes before sunset. Visa, Euro/MC, AmEx. 900-1,500 Kc.
La Perle de Prague French. Located atop the "Dancing Building." Popular among the upwardly mobile. Recommended: red snapper a la Provencal, tournedos de boeuf with Bearnaise sauce, young rabbit in mustard sauce. Rasin Building, Rasinovo nabrezi 80, Prague 2. Tel. 2198 4160. Open Mon.-Fri. noon-2 p.m. and 7:30-10:30 p.m. (no lunch on Mondays). Major credit cards. More than 1,500 Kc.
La Provence French. Once you get past the hubbub on the corner and upstairs, you'll find charming country dining downstairs. Recommended: the many excellent salads, coq au vin rouge, vegetables au gratin, cassoulet. Fun. Stupartska 9, Prague 1 (near Celetna). Tel. 232 4801. Open daily 8 a.m.-1 a.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 400-600 Kc.
Pravda Hip. From the inventors of fine dining in Prague. Gracefully cool service complements the marvelous dishes. Recommended: Cajun crawfish, Vietnamese nem spring rolls, Scandinavian marinated salmon in mustard sauce. Parizska 17, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 232 6203. Open 11:30 a.m.-1 a.m. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 1,000-1,200 Kc.
U Maltezskych rytiru Continental. Cozy and gracious. Recommended: filet mignon, venison Chateaubriand, homemade apple strudel. Prokopska 10 (off Karmelitska), Prague 1-Mala Strana. Tel. 5753 3666 or 5753 1324. Open daily 11-11. AmEx, Euro/MC, Visa. 800-1,000 Kc.
U Modre kachnicky Game. Elaborate decor. Recommended: fallow deer haunch in red wine sauce, roasted rabbit with dumplings, venison in rose-hip sauce. Nebovidska 6, Prague 1-Mala Strana. Tel. 5732 0308, fax: 53 97 31. Open daily noon-4 p.m. and 6:30-midnight. No credit cards. 700-800 Kc.
Moderate
Ambiente Pasta Fresca Italian. Reliable eats in the center, but you'll find better noodles elsewhere. Lively atmosphere. Recommended: cotoletta do agnello con spinaci, filetto ala griglia, fettuccine al salmone. Celetna 11, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2423 0244. Open daily 11 a.m.-midnight (Cafe open 9 a.m.-midnight). Major credit cards. 300-500 Kc.
Cantina Very nearly Tex-Mex. A colorful, good-time setting for fabulous fajitas and good margaritas. Always a-buzz, so book ahead. Ujezd 38, Prague 1-Mala Strana. Tel. 5731 7173. Open daily noon-midnight. Major credit cards. 300-500 Kc.
Chez Marcel French. A brasserie popular with locals and expats. Recommended: daily specials, pepper steak, pate. Hastalska 12, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 231 5676. Open Mon.-Fri. 8 a.m.-1 a.m., weekends 9 a.m.-1 a.m. (Kitchen open noon-11 p.m.) No credit cards. 200-500 Kc.
Clementinum Recently named Prague's best new restaurant by Conde Nast Traveller. Boasts the best gnocchi in town, Italian or otherwise. Platnerska 9, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 2481 3892. Open daily 11 a.m.-midnight. AmEx, Euro/MC, JCB, Visa. 300-450 Kc.
U Kalicha (At the Chalice) Czech. The Good Soldier Svejk made a date with a friend here for "six in the evening after the war." Lots of atmosphere. Standard Czech fare. Na Bojisti 12-14, Prague 2. Tel. 29 07 01 or 29 19 45. Open daily 11 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5-10 p.m. AmEx, Diners Club, JCB, Visa. 350-500 Kc.
Posledni stace (The Last Resort) A casual, modish grill bar in the heart of Old Town. Good food, better face-time. Dlouha 7, Prague 1. Tel. 2481 8320. Open daily 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Euro/MC, Visa. 300-600 Kc.
Red Hot & Blues Your best bet for Cajun, Tex-Mex and American all in one. Brunch on weekends. Live music nightly. Recommended: eggplant creole, bourbon pork. Jakubska 12, Prague 1 (behind the Kotva department store). Tel 231 4639. Open daily 9 a.m.-11 p.m. AmEx, Visa, Euro/MC. 300-450 Kc.
Solidni nejistota (Solid Uncertainty) A new twist on the bar and grill. Grilled specialties offer excellent value. Trendy. Pstrossova 21, Prague 1 (behind the National Theater.) Tel. 2491 0593. Open daily 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Major credit cards. 200-400 Kc.
Kozicka It is kind of steak house in the very nice decorated cellar just few metres from the Old Town Square. Part of it is also trandy bar and the kitchen stays open late (2.am). Kozi 3, Prague 1 Tel. 2481 8308. Open daily noon-4 a.m. Major credit cards. 300-500 Kc.
U Provaznice Czech. Old pub atmosphere borders on the zany. Good beer, good prices, good location. Recommended: goulash, "the rope maker's beautiful wife's platter," pear strudel. Provaznicka 3, Prague 1 (near Mustek). Tel. 2423 2528. Open daily 10:30 a.m.-midnight. No credit cards. 200-400 Kc.
U Rychtare Just off Old Town Square. Pastas, pizzas, fish and vegetarian dishes in abundance. Dlouha 2, Prague 1-Old Town. (Note: the restaurant is separate from the next-door pub, Pivnice U Rychtare.) Tel. 232 7207. Open daily 11-11. Major credit cards. 200-300 Kc.
U Tri zlatych hvezd Czech. The menu adds a touch of class to the standard dishes. Romantics should request a table in the pastel-toned downstairs room with its private nooks and quiet corners. Malostranske nam. 8, Prague 1-Mala Strana. Tel./fax: 53 96 60. Open daily 11:30-11:30. Euro/MC, Visa. 400-500 Kc.
Inexpensive
Bar Bar Diverse, fresh ingredients make for whimsical crepes and galletes. Salads, too. Recommended: crepes Dublin and Paris. Vsehrdova 17, Prague 1-Mala Strana. Open daily noon-11 p.m. Euro/MC, Visa. Stravenky. 150-250 Kc.
Bohemia Bagel Fresh bagels of many varieties, sandwiches and homemade soups. Bottomless cups of coffee. Recommended: muffins, brownies and cheesecakes. Ujezd 16, Prague 1-Mala Strana. Tel. 53 10 02. Open daily, 7 a.m.-2 a.m. Also at Masna 2, Prague 1-Old Town. Open Mon.-Fri. 7 a.m.-midnight. Sat.-Sun. 8 a.m.-midnight. No credit cards. 40-150 Kc
Maly Buddha Vietnamese temple food. A fine assortment of teas and light dishes. No smoking. Recommended: vegetarian spring rolls, Chinese chicken. Uvoz 46, Prague 1- Hradcany. Open Tues.-Sun. 1-10:30 p.m. No credit cards. 100-200 Kc.
Pizza Coloseum Pizza and pasta. A hit overall, with the rare foul thrown in. Usually crowded, but great for a pre-movie dinner. Recommended: chicken marsala, gnocchi. Vodickova 32, Prague 1. Open Mon.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m., Sun. noon-11:30 p.m. AmEx, Visa. 100-300 Kc.
Pizzeria Kmotra Pizza. A perennial favorite; hence, the long line for a table. V Jircharich 12, Prague 1 (near Spalena). Open daily 11 a.m.- midnight. No credit cards. Stravenky. 100-250 Kc
Radost FX Cafe Vegetarian. Weekend brunch. Good pastas on Italian night every Sunday. A hip crowd, but glacial service. Open late. Belehradska 120, Prague 2 (near metro I.P. Pavlova). Open daily 11:30 a.m.-4 a.m. No credit cards. 100-300 Kc.
U Sadlu The restaurant has a middle age decoration, it has suits of armour and weapons on the wall. The kitchen turns out outstanding tenderloin, hearty soups and other burly fare, but with a certain je ne sais quoi. The food is really excellent and the portions are big. Klimentská 2, Prague 1 Open daily 11 a.m.-1 a.m. No credit cards. 150-300 Kc.
U Suteru A truly gracious Czech pub. Simple dishes, good value and kind service. Very busy at peak hours. Palackeho 2, Prague 1. Open daily, 11-11. No credit cards. Under 200 Kc.
U Vladare Near the Charles Bridge, is a comfortable Czech restaurant and pub, where you sit in horse stalls. You can try also horse salami with Czech beer. The prices are good, the staff - it depends on the shifft you are getting. Maltezske namesti 10, Prague 1 Open daily 11a.m.-11p.m. Under 200 Kc
Pubs and bars
Cesky Pivovar The brewery atmosphere is nice and the prices are still acceptable. You can find there typical Czech beer food. Vodickova 20, Prague 1 Open daily 10a.m.-11 p.m.
U Vejvodu Recently renovated original pub from 16 century in origin renesance building from this time. Vejvodova 2, Prague 1 Open daily 11 a.m.-midnight
Baracnicka rychta Old-fashioned good times. Good, cheap beer and solid pub fare in the heart of Mala Strana. Outdoor seating. Trziste 23, Prague 1-Mala Strana Open daily noon-midnight.
Bugsy's Bar The old reliable. Shakes, stirs and tosses excellent cocktails in town. The drinks list is about the length of The Great Gatsby and nearly as pleasurable to read (over 300 drinks). Kostecna 2 (off Parizska), Prague 1. Open daily 7 p.m.-2 a.m.
Caffrey's Irish Bar Casual atmosphere and full menu on Old Town Square. Staromestske nam. 10, Prague 1-Old Town. Open Sun.-Thurs. 9 a.m.-1 a.m. Fri.-Sat. 9 a.m.-2 a.m.
Delux An intriguing combination Latin jazz bar, disco and restaurant serving Thai and Cuban food. Astra Palac. Vaclavske nam 4, Prague 1. Open daily 6 p.m.-4 a.m. . 100 Kc cover (waived with dinner)
Escape Cocktails. Elegantly casual setting for the cocktail hour or that after-dinner drink. Outstanding cocktails and service. Dusni 8, Prague 1-Old Town. . Open daily 7 p.m.-2 a.m.
Jama A lot like a North American college tavern. Filling food with influences from both hemispheres and good beers from south Bohemia on tap. Brunch served weekends until 5 p.m. V Jame 7, Prague 1 (off Vodickova). Open daily 11 a.m.-1 a.m.
James Joyce A cozy and popular, Irish pub. Czech, Irish and English beer, stout and ale are usually available. Liliova 10, Prague 1 (near Betlemske namesti). Open daily 10:30 a.m.-12:30 a.m.
Konvikt Pub A local favorite. Traditional Czech dishes and both domestic and imported beers on tap. Breakfast, too. Bartolomejska 11, Prague 1-Old Town. Open Mon.-Fri. 9-midnight, Sat.-Sun. 11-midnight.
U Maleho Glena (Little Glenn's) Jazz and assorted good times. Good place to meet and be met. Live music every night. Karmelitska 23, Prague 1-Mala Strana. Open daily 10 a.m.-1 a.m.
Merlin Irish bar meets Czech hospoda. They fall in love. Full menu. Belehradska 68a, Prague 2. . Open Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-midnight, Sat.-Sun. 3 p.m.-midnight.
O'Che's Cuba has washed ashore in the Old Town, or at least a Guinness-addled dream of what Cuba would be like if it were run by Irish revolutionaries instead of Caribbean ones. Liliova 14, Prague 1. Open daily 10 a.m.-midnight.
St. Nicholas Cafe The customers are cool, the mood hip and cynical, and the prices lower than you might think. Trziste 10, Prague 1 (near the U.S. Embassy). . Open Mon.-Fri. noon-1 a.m., Sat. and Sun. 4 p.m.-1 a.m.
Tom Tom Club Cocktails. A laid-back Mediterranean feel makes this newcomer a good choice for quiet chats and quick coffees as well as a nice Campari on ice. Dlouha 46, Prague 1-Old Town. Open Mon.-Fri. 10 a.m.-1 a.m., Sat.-Sun. 11 a.m.-1 a.m.
Tretter's Bar Cocktails. The connoisseur's choice. Top-notch cocktails and service in a classic setting. V Kolkovne 3. Prague 1-Old Town. Open daily 7 p.m.-3 a.m.
ZanziBar Dry martinis, margaritas and other staples are well mixed by Prague standards. Steepish prices. Ladies' night every Wednesday. Lazenska 6, Prague 1-Mala Strana. . Open daily 2 p.m.-2 a.m.
Zelezne dvere The in thing. Cocktail and DJ lounge. Mad. Michalska 19/Jilska 18, Prague 1-Old Town. Open daily 7 p.m.-4 a.m.
Ziznivy pes (The Thirsty Dog) Nick Cave got so bummed out here he had to write a song about it. Everyone else appears to be having a good time. Elisky Krasnohorske 5, Prague 1. . Open daily 11 a.m.-2 a.m.